SUZY MENKES

Suzy Menkes is not a luxury brand, but her leading articles can almost be consider the Bible of Fashion&Luxury. She is a big authority in the fashion world and her articles in the prestigious journal The International Herald Tribune about fashion collections are a reference.

Despite being one the most widely read fashion editors, her passion for fashion does not stop her being objective and fair in every article. She keeps watching every show and collection with the same passion and enthusiasm as the very first day. 

Menkes does writting but she doesn't stays there, she also organizes events and conferences in the luxury world, being aware of every new store, finds new talents and being in the luxury market spotlight. 

She is not an usual editor, she is a historian by University of Cambridge and at early age she went to Paris to study dressmaking. After that time se become fashion editor and sice then it's been mandatory for all the people that loves and cares about fashion to read her articles; it is admirable how can she define a collection, she got to know about what a trend is, the fabrics, the designers and their personality and style above many other things. And most of all she does care about fashion history and has built a distinct style that became timeless and unique.


I invite you to read her articles and watch some of her interviews and remarkable opinions:

• Suzy Menkes on Margaret Thatcher Style 
• Christian Dior Couture Show since John Galliano's Departure 
• In Spain, Finally, Homage to Balenciaga 

Here's an interview she made with Alber Elbaz from Lanvin speaking of his colletion for H&M.

And anothet video this time she being interviewed by Fiona Sanderson.

LADY GAGA "YOU AND I" BY INEZ&VINOODH

Lanvin Fall Winter 2011-2012 Ad Campaign

ROSEANNA

www.roseannaswim.com 

 When I first get to know this brand I was surprise of the tiny sample collection they had. But just in a minute I realized the softness touch these two women involve in their designs.

Anne-Fleur and Roxane are the typical french girls, the ones that knows chic and allure.
Roseanne begun as swimsuit and underwear brand, and just like good and careful business they become little by little the brand nowadays, the one that has a melange of textures, patterns and exquisite dedication from their mademoiselles.

I invite you to take a look at their website and if you are lucky enough to live in a city where they sell the collection, please go and have a walk around this lovely path.

PIRELLI CALENDAR 2011

 This Year's Pirelli Calendar has been shooted by Karl Lagerfeld and based in the ancient Greek. All the characters had been personified by Karl's favorite models with Julianne Moore as a great surprise; it looks like she had become designers favorite actress. We can also watch Baptiste Giabiconi as Apolo; the creative director of Chanel is making his appearences even more weary, Karl is killing this boy's image really fast which doesn't look as a timeless career.

  It has surprised me the way Karl has photographed this sitting, with the attention to detail and the elgance as the myth of greek goddess. Watching Daria Werbowy as Artemisa or Iris Strubegger as Atenea is such a refreshing view after last year's Terry Richardson Pirelli which was much more especific and sexually obvious.

 As a new decade starting, Pirelli calendar has chosen a tireless photographer to capture and photograph the classic mythology when what surrounds us looks so modern and accelerated. Let's enjoy with the 15 divas and for the first time 5 Gods that Lagerfeld propose.

 

AU REVOIR PARIS SPRING 2011

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton


After the lost of Lee McQueen every eye was put on Burton's first collection as creative director and every expectation was high enough to mesmerize the show. The baroque, imperial and Louis XV style was accompanied by the tenderness. The handcraff of the cuts on the suits, a fabulous care on the shapes and the sculptural dresses were on the same way as Lee used the last years. To replace McQueen is not easy at all and sure it's going to take her a lot of patience and strengh to show her real personality and style, McQueen was unique and unrepeatable so Sarah Burton better restart by her own, goog job!!

Yves Saint Laurent

Stefano Pilati YSL collection has remind me when i visit last may Yves Saint Laurent exposition in Paris, an exhibition about his life and evolution. The exhibition was perfectly organized by his multiples stages, so when i saw the collection that Stefano has created i was convinced that he had look back to the past, took the archives and put everything together with delicacy but with full knowledge of what he was doing.

Chanel

Chanel runaway was the invitation to a dark garden full of secrets very well told by Karl Lagerfeld. The classic tweeds were back, and it's been a very innovative collection which seems to never stop in the kaiser's mind. This collection it has been decorated by some feathers on the jackets shoulders, zigzag prints, flower blouses, shredded jeans, and chiffon shapes. Chanel is not about trends, is about class, history, it's about the "know-how". Karl Lagerfeld knows how to keep with Chanel style and at the same time create pieces and clothes that are modern and developing. Chanel with Karl is never going to be off fashion, not even off life. The appearance of Inès de la Fressange at the end of the show was the proof of what Lagerfeld wanted to show, the background of a house with many stories to tell, a look back to the 20's at Mademoiselle Coco Maison. 

PARIS FASHION WEEK II

In the runaway of Balenciaga what first claim your attention is the models cast, we've seen Gisele Bundchen back on the catwalk for the first time after become a mother and many other great models that were retired for all purposes: Amber Valetta, Carolyn Murphy, Stella Tenant and also a pregnant Miranda Kerr.
Guesquiere has choosen so many different shapes: huge "pied de coq" coats, big sleeves, warrior style, men's shoes and flat sandals for a masculine atmosphere. He has tried different cuts with the innovative shirts with big dots on it and mixing colours on them. Nicolas Guesquiere wants the woman to be back on comfortability, but don't forget the leather strengh with the nice red biker jacket that Carolyn Murphy is wearing: keep rocking your world.

Balmain-mania is almost over, again first thing we liked watching Daria Werbowy on the runaway and noting Carmen Kass has cut off her hair is not a good sign. But anyway, apart from these evidence and the rocky style, capri trousers are on for next summer and yet for these autumn. If one thing Decarnin is not ready to give away is the sexiness of his women, the two corsets make the effect he's looking for but not the perfect match. Something you get tired of already the bleached pants and the cut tights, and something you look forward to the red and silver shinning pants. It seems Decarnin has stuck on Balmain a bit.

    

Isabel Marant has paint a candy and sweet summer, she shows her love for youth and wants not women but girls with personality wearing her clothes, if you want to have fun go for Marant. We love her mix of shorts and boots, the net effect on the t-shirts, the crochet and the cherry dresses. Her song is in between Nancy Sinatra's "these boots are made for walkin" and Grease "Summer Nights", let's eat some gum next summer!

 

At Loewe Stuart Vevers is trying season after season to give a younger look to the brand what for a hundred year old brand based on leather goods is not an easy job, but he's sure making an appealing change. There's chic style all over, and since Stuart is dreaming about butterflies on his clothes he's seen the world in a nice melange of colours and shapes, it's like being in a fruit shop in the caribbean and that's not the main point of the show, mostly the optimism runs errands the show, maybe too much for Loewe?

 


Monday morning dawned dark in Paris at Givenchy and his almost black and white palette; Riccardo Tisci wore his models as a gothic tribe walking through the line of darkness with flow charm and transparencies coming all over from the skirts or the trousers. A remarkable detail is the overlap jackets, the leopard prints and the zippers all over.