AU REVOIR PARIS SPRING 2011

Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton


After the lost of Lee McQueen every eye was put on Burton's first collection as creative director and every expectation was high enough to mesmerize the show. The baroque, imperial and Louis XV style was accompanied by the tenderness. The handcraff of the cuts on the suits, a fabulous care on the shapes and the sculptural dresses were on the same way as Lee used the last years. To replace McQueen is not easy at all and sure it's going to take her a lot of patience and strengh to show her real personality and style, McQueen was unique and unrepeatable so Sarah Burton better restart by her own, goog job!!

Yves Saint Laurent

Stefano Pilati YSL collection has remind me when i visit last may Yves Saint Laurent exposition in Paris, an exhibition about his life and evolution. The exhibition was perfectly organized by his multiples stages, so when i saw the collection that Stefano has created i was convinced that he had look back to the past, took the archives and put everything together with delicacy but with full knowledge of what he was doing.

Chanel

Chanel runaway was the invitation to a dark garden full of secrets very well told by Karl Lagerfeld. The classic tweeds were back, and it's been a very innovative collection which seems to never stop in the kaiser's mind. This collection it has been decorated by some feathers on the jackets shoulders, zigzag prints, flower blouses, shredded jeans, and chiffon shapes. Chanel is not about trends, is about class, history, it's about the "know-how". Karl Lagerfeld knows how to keep with Chanel style and at the same time create pieces and clothes that are modern and developing. Chanel with Karl is never going to be off fashion, not even off life. The appearance of Inès de la Fressange at the end of the show was the proof of what Lagerfeld wanted to show, the background of a house with many stories to tell, a look back to the 20's at Mademoiselle Coco Maison. 

PARIS FASHION WEEK II

In the runaway of Balenciaga what first claim your attention is the models cast, we've seen Gisele Bundchen back on the catwalk for the first time after become a mother and many other great models that were retired for all purposes: Amber Valetta, Carolyn Murphy, Stella Tenant and also a pregnant Miranda Kerr.
Guesquiere has choosen so many different shapes: huge "pied de coq" coats, big sleeves, warrior style, men's shoes and flat sandals for a masculine atmosphere. He has tried different cuts with the innovative shirts with big dots on it and mixing colours on them. Nicolas Guesquiere wants the woman to be back on comfortability, but don't forget the leather strengh with the nice red biker jacket that Carolyn Murphy is wearing: keep rocking your world.

Balmain-mania is almost over, again first thing we liked watching Daria Werbowy on the runaway and noting Carmen Kass has cut off her hair is not a good sign. But anyway, apart from these evidence and the rocky style, capri trousers are on for next summer and yet for these autumn. If one thing Decarnin is not ready to give away is the sexiness of his women, the two corsets make the effect he's looking for but not the perfect match. Something you get tired of already the bleached pants and the cut tights, and something you look forward to the red and silver shinning pants. It seems Decarnin has stuck on Balmain a bit.

    

Isabel Marant has paint a candy and sweet summer, she shows her love for youth and wants not women but girls with personality wearing her clothes, if you want to have fun go for Marant. We love her mix of shorts and boots, the net effect on the t-shirts, the crochet and the cherry dresses. Her song is in between Nancy Sinatra's "these boots are made for walkin" and Grease "Summer Nights", let's eat some gum next summer!

 

At Loewe Stuart Vevers is trying season after season to give a younger look to the brand what for a hundred year old brand based on leather goods is not an easy job, but he's sure making an appealing change. There's chic style all over, and since Stuart is dreaming about butterflies on his clothes he's seen the world in a nice melange of colours and shapes, it's like being in a fruit shop in the caribbean and that's not the main point of the show, mostly the optimism runs errands the show, maybe too much for Loewe?

 


Monday morning dawned dark in Paris at Givenchy and his almost black and white palette; Riccardo Tisci wore his models as a gothic tribe walking through the line of darkness with flow charm and transparencies coming all over from the skirts or the trousers. A remarkable detail is the overlap jackets, the leopard prints and the zippers all over.

PARIS FASHION WEEK

We have seen that there's no Monarchy anymore in the fashion world. It's been few weeks of completely variety of patterns, shapes, textures. It looks like next spring could both be colourful or white out in New York and Milan, but when it comes to Paris everything's different, not only many designers didn't really think about spring time but they have keep their soul and style; with Balmain everything seem the same, Balenciaga still with their construction work, Isabel Marant looks joyful and youthful, Loewe surprises with a nice palette that looks like a yummy cake brighten up Paris runaway. And Céline and Stella McCartney had made their job pretty good, wanting women to dress comfortable, easy and simple. Both Phoebe and Stella had studied at the same fashion school, they are friends and it seems that they run the fashion world with real skill; they are women nowadays: workers, mothers, friends and they do every job in every perfectly way.




BEAUTIFUL LANVIN!!!


I want to be a Lanvin model, i want to wear those dresses and i want to live in a world full of glam, elegance, style and class so please i beg you Alber Elbaz, take me somewhere near Sahara to dream and never wake up.
Alber Elbaz commented about his show that he wanted "modernity and glamour to live together" and sure he did!!
 The first look that came was an amazing long pleated skirt with a tan asymmetric bodysuit touch by the unmistakeable sense of airiest that Elbaz always put on his shows. Every piece flows into the scene that the designer and his team create for women who really want to feel special and become different people.
This Spring 2011 for Lanvin is a mixture of many things that could look like it goes in different ways but   never so fast and clear, Alber Elbaz makes things look easy and simple which means that they aren't. We have seen dresses that suit the body as a second skin, beautiful and becoming asymetric cuts, flat sandals that many women will thank fot and some leather belts which have nothing to do with the polished and innovative dresses to finaly get to the point that he's a geniuos and he will always be. The final surprise  was accompanied by five spectacular dresses with woodland print: welcome to "Nights in Lanvin Satin".